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WinePress Northwest, fall 2007

"It's a big and busty bottling, but it's built to last with acidity and tannins or enjoy now with some baby back ribs. A long plummy finish has a dash of pepper and flick of cigar ash."

Trust Cellars 2005 Syrah. Columbia Valley, 200 cases, $28.

Excellent. Steve Brooks is new to Walla Walla, but he's jumped right up with his new releases. Goose Ridge, Va Piano and Portteus gave him a base coat of brambleberries, bacon fat, charcoal and umeboshi paste. It's a big and busty bottling, but it's built to last with acidity and tannins or enjoy now with some baby back ribs. A long plummy finish has a dash of pepper and flick of cigar ash.

Trust Cellars 2006 Reisling. Columbia Valley, 180 cases, $18.

Outstanding! Count owner/winemaker Steve Brooks among the many newcomers to Walla Walla, and he looks to have staying power. He gathered fruit from Weinbau (53%), Lonesome Spring, Dionysus, Koinonia, and Phil Church, went after a Mosel style and found the mark, starting with hints of stone fruit, river rock, muskmelon and lime peel. A complex palate features pear with tropical fruit, and while there's a touch of sugar cane sweetness (1%), a lime's second squeeze offers both acidity and a touch of bitterness for a food-friendly balance.